Pattern recognition driver seems to be simultaneously having a phone conversation via the headset screwed into one ear and listening to music from the cd-player earphones covering both. she gets the idea that the concept of lanes is a fluid one, here, as perhaps is attention to the road. tries to concentrate on the grassy median, where wildflowers grow. she glimpses smokestacks in the distance, and tall orange buildings, but the smokestacks, pouring white smoke, seem to rise from among those buildings in some unfamiliar way, suggesting alien or perhaps nonexistent concepts of zoning. billboards for computers, luxury goods, and electronics appear, increasing in number and variety as they approach the city. the sky, aside from the plumes of the smokestacks and a yellow-brown smudge of petro-carbons, is cloudless and blue. her first impression of moscow itself is that everything is far larger than it could possibly have any need to be. cyclopean stalin-era buildings in burnt orange brick, their detailing vaguely maroonish. built to humble, and terrify. but lampposts, fountains, plazas, all partake of this exaggerated scale. as they cross the eight lanes of the traffic-packed garden ring, the high-urban factor goes up several notches, and the advertising thickens. off to the right, she sees an enormous art nouveau train station, a survival from an earlier era still, but on a scale to dwarf london's grandest. then a mcdonald's, seemingly as large. there are more trees than she'd expected, and as she begins to adjust to the scale of things, she notices smaller buildings, all remarkably ugly, which probably date from the sixties. if so, these are easily the worst sixties buildings she's ever seen, and visibly crumbling at the edges. quite a few are being torn down, and indeed there is scaffolding everywhere, much renovation under way, and in what she guesses is tverskaya street the crowds are thick as the children's crusade, but moving far more determinedly. huge advertising banners are slung across the street, and billboards top most buildings. an incredible number of blue-and-white electric buses here, a vintage dinky toy blue that she's never seen on a real vehicle before. a lot of them don't seem to be going anywhere. her sole previous experience of the soviet, or post-soviet, had been a single evening in the former east berlin, a few months after the wall's fall. back in her hotel, safely in the west, she'd come very close to weeping, appalled at the manifest cruelty, not to mention sheer boneheaded stupidity of what she'd seen, and had been moved to call win in tennessee. 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